Friday, 26 October 2012

Pigskin shoes

Pigskin is underrated when coming to shoe hides. Most gents will say Crocodile, Alligator, Stingray, Shark hides etc, are most exclusive. True, but in my humble opinion pig hide does some wonders if given to the patina artisan to finish the job. What the heck am I talking about.....

Bestetti pigskin balmoral oxford (black)
Bestetti pigskin derby (Norvegese stitching) brown
 Bestetti pigskin derby (tan)
Carreducker Derby in pigskin (brown)
 Gaziano & Girling Derby in pigskin
 Gaziano & Girling loafer in pigskin
 Gaziano & Girling Derby in pigskin
 GJ Cleverley(De Rede) loafer in pigskin 
 GJ Cleverley loafer in pigskin
 Marquess side gusset in pigskin
 Marquess lazy man's side gusset in pigskin
Photos sourced from Cyberspace, A Suitable Wardrobe and Style Forum

Sunday, 7 October 2012

Antonio Pio Mele - bespoke for the kids

I sampled two pairs of bespoke children's shoes by Master Antonio Pio Mele in exotic hide. The shoes look so adorable, a good start with bespoke shoes for the young man, whoever he is. Wear them in good health. Master Antonio well done.

Master Antonio in a  Chesterfield sofa chair and enjoying a puff from the cigar.

A blue "blind" full brogue made of crocodile for a baby boy I assume. Very nice, a good pair of bespoke shoes to start life with.
 A brown pair of derby's for a kid made of exotic hide. Very cute. Nice touch.
Photos sourced from Antonio Pio Mele's FB profile.

John Lobb - Double monk in 24 karat gold - too much?

A bad joke from John Lobb?? No! - The ultimate "new rich" man's shoe, a double monk in 24 karat gold for the sole and the buckles. Now that is way out of touch with most people. It is in my humble opinion too much, perhaps our "new rich friends" from the former USSR will find this shoes with gold soles appealing. Lobb offers what the client wishes for. Not my cup of tea anyway. I had to share anyway. 

John Lobb double monk, soles and buckles are made of 24 karat gold.
Photo sourced from Cyberspace

Glacage Chaussures - The patina god (part II)

Patina art Master Paulus Bolten = Glacage Chaussures (France) is a legendary figure when it comes to the art of patina, cirage, glacage etc. When you enter his site all these 
terms are mentioned, I reckon each term has a deeper meaning to what it stands for and how it differs from the other terms. Master Paulus Bolten works with so many shoe makers and offers workshops in the art of patina. Wish we had an apostle like him in the Nordic, definitely I would be a follower. I am really looking forward to the new shoe site that will open in a few weeks from now. If I understand well, Master Paulus will be offering shoes that come with a patina from start. Hmmm, very interesting. A patina artist going shoemaking, nice touch.
Master Paulus Bolten (the patina Apostle himself), looking very dapper at an arrangement.
A pair of Berluti loafers that was treated & handled by Master Paulus.
 A Berluti pair softly handled by the hands of Master Paulus. I skipped some photos. but wanted to show the transformation of this pair from being dull and unattractive to a very appealing pair. Nice touch from Master Paulus.
 A pair of Gieves and Hawkes shoes after a gentle treatment by Master Bolten. 
A leather jacket before treatment by Master Paulus Bolten.
Same leather jacket after a good and loving treat by the hand of the patina Apostle, Master Paulus. A new and transformed jacket emerges. Beautiful. 
A class with the patina art disciples, followers having a good time.
Master Paulus Boten (left) again, a sartorial gent as one can see from his outfit and posture. 
Photos sourced from Master Paulus Bolten's site

Antonio Meccariello Calzoleria - Patina of the day

Master Antonio Meccariello Calzoleria is a bespoke boot and shoemaker and a patina artist. A very rare combination at the moment. My observations are: either the artisan is a bespoke shoemaker or a patina artist, never find the two arts in one single individual. But seems that Master Antonio Calzoleria is breaking the trend. I have earlier mentioned the gent here on this blog.

The triple monk bootie, I simply like the patina work colour combination, it's very sober and refined, would not raise eyebrows even in very conservative environments. The patina art will also work beautifully on a Chelsea boot or a whole cut oxford. The triple monk bootie makes me want to own a pair in this rendition. Come next Summer, I am ready with this bootie.
A two tier tassel laced Derby, that honey like colouring, just perfect for Spring & Summer.
Photos sourced from Antonio Meccariello Calzoleria

Saturday, 6 October 2012

Casa Fagliano - The Polo sport bespoke bootmakers

If one says Argentina, you think of Tango, and will never give thought to bespoke shoe and boot making for the equestrian polo sport. Buenos Aires harbours one of the greatest bespoke polo boot makers who have been in the same workshop since 1892. The Fagliano family (fourth and fifth generation) provides and makes polo boots for the Royalty (HRH Prince Charles and the sons), Aristocracy and the rich. As far as I know, the only shoe artisan family that can turn back orders from the Royalty and Aristocracy. Well done. 
These boots do not come cheap.
Equestrian polo game painting from ancient far East.
Casa Fagliano workshop in Buenos Aires
The Fagliano dynasty of polo boot makers
An inspection of a polo boot by Master Fagliano (Rodolfo)
Polo boots for some Aristocractic gent
Gaucho boots on display
 More gaucho / polo boots
Photos sourced from hodinkee

Dimitri Gomez - Whole cut exotic loafer

Master Dimitri Gomez the Parisian Bespoke shoemaker, the man who designed the 337 hand grade last for Crockett and Jones (Northampton) needs no introduction. I blogged about Master Dimitri Gomez a while ago here and today I have sampled an exotic bespoke loafer, a whole cut, the type resembling home slippers like the Alberts, but this baby is very costly. Not just any whole cut loafer, but in orange coloured crocodile. Amazing piece.
Enjoy your weekend.
A whole cut orange crocodile whole cut loafer
Photos sourced from Dimitri Gomez

The button Balmoral boot accessory

The past week as I was having a conversation with a friend about my commissioned buttoned Balmoral boots from Master Cliff Roberts, my friend inquired as how am I going to button the boots. Well, answer was very simple..... the below picture shows the accessory needed to handle the job.
What I find fascinating about the picture is that, the man buttoning the boots seems to be a simple worker/labourer, not from the top of society, but still had saved some money to commission the balmoral boots. 
Quest is why are so many men today perfectly comfortable with the likes of "Ecco" shoes, good to throw away after buying them. Hmmm....just a week-end thought. What do you think??
Photo sourced from Cyberspace

Autumn - continuing

As Autumn is here, one will need an overcoat to keep the body warm and a hat to keep the brains warm too. Below illustration depicts two gents in hats, Homburg and bowler, heavy suiting cloth, heavy tweed herringbone overcoat with turn back cuffs, gloves, bold checked suit, well polished oxfords and umbrellas. All accessories of an English gent. Both topping the ensemble off with boutonnieres. Elegancy with simplicity.

Illustration/photo sourced from Cyberspace

Autumn - coats and more

Autumn is for heavier cloth to keep one warm, whether it be the overcoat or the suiting cloth. The below illustration depicts a gent in a double breasted peak lapel checked tweed coat (Glen Urquhart), navy flannel trousers (chalk stripped) and a dark grey Homburg hat. The outfit is complimented by a black oxford cap toe shoe. An English man, indeed doing his business in town.
 Two gents hailing a taxi in London. The gent on the left wears, a Crombie style double breasted coat with a velvet collar, six buttons, four functioning. Outfit is topped by a Homburg hat, an umbrella. So British. The simplicity of elegancy. The gent on the right, a suit, bowler hat and an umbrella. Perhaps a butler.
Photos sourced from Cyberspace