Sunday, 28 April 2013

HRH Prince Charles on the little details that makes him impeccably dressed

Today I have sampled pictures of HRH Prince Charles in different occasions, but as we all are aware of the fact that HRH Prince Charles  is always impeccably, classically and timelessly dressed. Need not mention that the bespoke suit, perfect English cut and the perfectly lengthened shirt sleeves make the main posture. But.....but.....

We have to look at the little details of accessories that makes the look complete. I have focused on the little accessories such as pocket square, boutonniere, cufflinks and those who can pull it, the signet ring. Most of us will do without the signet ring. But worth mentioning. 

HRH Prince Charles in the sartorial double breasted suit, blue shirt and a regimental tie. Now comes the little details: pocket square, in paisley blue and hint of red, neatly tucked in the jacket's breast pocket, boutonniere in the lapel of the jacket. Cuff-links and a signet ring on the little finger. Please note, not one of the sleeve buttons on the jacket is open. As we all know they are functional. So it should be. Hmmmm....just wonderful, simple yet refined and classic.
HRH Prince Charles showing "unintentional" his cufflinks in gold with letter "C" and the crown.
 HRH Prince Charles and the signet ring on the little finger and those lovely cufflinks in gold. Just perfect. 
Photos sourced from The Guardian and Zimbio

Gaziano and Girling - two samples of bespoke shoes

Northampton based Gaziano and Girling, have this "little" tendency of pulling some amazing rabbits from the magic bag of shoes. No wonder they are are so popular amongst the new generation of gents commissioning bespoke shoes/boots.

Below a wing tipped whole cut Adelaide laced Oxford in dark antiqued oak on the TG73 chisel last. Simple, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a modern twist.
 A three tier Derby in calf and lizard hides with a medallion on the cap toe, round last DG70. Very cool Derby shoe and very sober medallion. Ouch....wish my treasurer box was unlimited. 
Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

Saint Crispin's blue loafers for the Spring / Summer

For the day just before blue Monday, I have sampled three pairs of loafers from Saint Crispin's, Viennese bespoke shoemaker. The first two loafers are on the model 533 last and the third on the model 111, both chiseled lasts. 
If I am not mistaken, Saint Crispin's will be having a trunk show next weekend in Stockholm, Sweden. A pity I can not make it for the event. I hope I can get a good feed back from those (I know) who will be to attending the event. Anyway, just before blue Monday, I present you the blue loafers as renditioned by Viennese Saint Crispin's.

Model 533 on the chiseled last in blue calf leather.
 Another model 533 on a chiseled last in blue suede leather. The laces in calf leather.
Model 511 on a SC chisel last in blue suede.
Photos sourced from Pinterest

Friday, 26 April 2013

Bestetti braided tassel loafer with apron

Yet another braided tassel loafer with a raised apron from Master Riccardo Bestetti's hands, I have sampled a Spring / Summer teaser for you and myself for the weekend. 

What I like about Master Bestetti's shoes is: the fact that they are very masculine though not the vulgar "Arnold" or "Rambo" like muscled guy, no pun intended, but more of a "no-nonsense" taking "gladiator" gent, who is full of confidence,  very refined and maintains that manly soft touch of Italy. Need not say that this below depicted shoe has the masculinity, the "gladiator" look and the Italian male softness. As said the beauty lies in the little details. 

Master Bestetti's braided tassel loafer with a raised apron
Photos sourced from Master Bestetti

Vintage American made alligator shoes

To be nostalgic about an era long gone and unknown to me. I found these alligator shoes made by American shoe companies who no longer produce this type of handcrafted items. The two pairs sampled here are from Bostonian and Florsheim, the latter being/was a Chicago based shoe company. 
These shoes are just beautiful and stunning and have aged very well over time. 

A vintage three tier plain Derby by Bostonian (USA)
 A Norwegian split toe Derby alligator by Florsheim (USA) from the 1940's.

Photos sourced from Vintage Shoes Addict

GJ Cleverley - V Galosh side gusset with faux laces

Once again the GJ Cleverley house pulls out another rabbit out of the magic bag. Not surprising that they "one of the best" London based shoemakers. The Cleverley house is known for its "very suspicious chisel square toe cap", but they are also known for their side gussets, which were created by Master George Cleverley himself for Sir Winston Leonard-Spencer Churchill, British politician and Prime Minister of the United Kingdom between 1940-1945 and 1951-1955.

The below depicted shoe is a "balmoral" by nature, as the top is separated from the bottom part by a galosh in a V shape. The top part of the shoe is a crocodile hide and the bottom part is black suede with a perforated design on the toe, and with red contrasting faux laces in calfskin matching the lining of the shoe. Wow! I go. 

Once again we see the beauty of a commissioned or bespoke shoe, which is a process that takes time. The commissioner has to think of the details of the shoe, design, styling, choice of leather, artistic details and lastly the envisioning of the product as a whole. Results, a very good looking, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a personal touch. Whoever the gent is, he definitely has good taste and is a shoe connoisseur. Wear the shoe in good health.
To all of you readers, I wish a great weekend.

GJ Cleverley "V" galoshed side gusset with faux laces in crocodile and suede
Photo sourced from GJ Cleverley

Edward Green Spring / Summer 2013 offerings

Today I was viewing "The Shoe Snob's" blog and he had sampled some very exciting coloured shoes from Edward Green. I need not mention that Edward Green is a successful establishment from Northampton, though stopped their bespoke shoe operation when Master Tony Gaziano left to establish Gaziano & Girling also Northampton based shoe company, which was established in 2006.

Not so long ago Justin FitzPatrick aka "The Shoe Snob" predicted that we will see more colour trend on shoes from the established shoemakers, instead of the usual black and brown  shoes. I have to say Master Justin FitzPatrick's prophecy came true, when looking at the below depicted offerings from EG for Summer and Spring. Very inspirational. 

Less talk and enjoy the pictures sampled from "The Shoe Snob" and wishing you all a pleasant weekend. 

EG's three tier Derby in suede and beautiful Summer / Spring colours.
 EG's Spring/Summer suede Chukka boots in inspirational S/S colours.
 EG's two tier Derby's in great colours for the Spring/Summer 2013
All photos sourced from The Shoe Snob.

Thursday, 25 April 2013

John Lobb x Paul Smith Westbourne punched cap toe Oxfords

John Lobb (venerable bespoke shoemaker) and Sir Paul Smith went together to create this punched cap toe Oxford with a medallion in four very interesting colours, rather the three pairs are very unusual, whilst the brownish is more or less expected. The first two are rather intriguing, the first a purple classic Oxford, second a blueish, third a brown (nothing that surprising or unexpected and the last a greenish shoe. A closer look at the colours all seem to be very sober and will raise appreciation and admiration rather than a faux pas in very conservative circles. I think they are very personalised in some form, they have that bit of splash and a teaspoon of dash added to make statement, a strong statement without being vulgar. Lovely colours. I could have all four. 
John Lobb x Paul Smith Westbourne punched cap toe Oxfords in stunning colours
Photos sourced from Leather Soul Hawaii

Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Cliff Roberts - "Lazyman" side gusset shoe with faux laces

Master Cliff Roberts, Northampton based one man operation bespoke shoemaker, never stops amazing me. The popularity of Master Roberts started by some cyberspace gents, shoe forum, shoe lovers and shoe aficionados who got into contact with him to commission a pair or two directly from him. Word by mouth spread around about Master Cliff Roberts works and ...well you know the story by now. Master Roberts can be contacted via Facebook, if needed.

The below is a side gusset with faux laces and a toe cap medallion. I know many gents who dislike the side gusset and adding faux laces it is just not acceptable to them.  
Well, I like the side gussets, I have always said that and the addition of faux laces gives the shoe a dash of a personal touch, in my humble opinion. Not exactly a true laced Oxford, but....a kind of a loafer resembling an Oxford. So in short one has a loafer and an "Oxford" at the same time. Frankly speaking, if one travels a lot, then this is the shoe you need to have. The colour of the shoe is something between black and mid night blue, a beautiful rendition of a side gusset with faux laces. 
Well done Master Cliff Roberts. Looking forward to more works from you.

Side gusset with false laces, cap toe medallion and three piece shoe trees

Photos sourced from Style Forum

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Saint Crispin's - The New Uno whole cut loafer

Well gents, shoe lovers, shoe snobs and more, it has been a while I touched down on the Viennese (Austria) bespoke shoemaker Saint Crispins. For the day I have sampled a beautiful rendition of a whole cut loafer from SC. I love the texture of the leather, looks like some crusted leather. The patina and the polishing is more reserved, but still the beauty of the shoe can not be ignored. A really nice, elegant and classic rendition of a whole cut loafer from the SC team. Congratulations gents.
The New Uno from Saint Crispins
Photo sourced from Ethan Desu

Monday, 22 April 2013

Grenson - whole cut suede tassel loafer "Marcel"

I had a friendly chat with one of my colleagues over the weekend, who asked me if I only own and blog about "high-end" shoes and clothing, well that was a hard one to swallow. Question is: What is "high-end" and for whom? I know of gents, who would not dream of cashing out for a pair of Crockett and Jones hand grade product(s), then on the opposite I know of others who will not settle for less than a bespoke John Lobb or the like. Depends who the target  audience is. 

So the question is tricky and to some extend not fair. Anyway, for the day I have sampled a whole cut loafer "Marcel" in brown suede from Grenson, a lovely shoe. Currently the "Marcel" is offered in brown, grey and blue suede (which looks very good) and it is below 200 British pounds. A beautiful shoe for the Spring/Summer period.
The Grenson "Marcel" in brown suede
Photos sourced from myself

Bestetti - whole cut brown alligator loafer

For the moment I am only thinking of loafers and only loafers, not sure why. Anyway for the day I sampled this beautiful rendition of a whole cut alligator loafer from Master Riccardo Bestetti, a stunning shoe.
Master Bestetti's rendition of a whole cut loafer made of alligator hide on a chisel square toe. Beautiful shoe. Well executed. 
 The owner of the whole cut alligator loafer wearing his shoes paired with lovely coloured socks. WoW!
Photos sourced from Master Bestetti or Style Forum not sure which of the two.

Yukio Akamine - a well dressed gent

I have noted that older gents have a way of assembling their attire with such ease and confidence that their appearance looks very well and appealing to the eye, and keeping a classic majestic posture. Not sure if it has to do with age or wisdom of dressing acquired over years to keep things simple, elegant and classic. One such gent is Yukio Akamine.

For the day I have sampled pictures of Mr. Akamine a Japanese gent, who pulls it off all the time and keeping a very classical, elegant and timeless look. What is your view?

Mr. Yukio Akamine in shades of blue, note the blue pocket square, socks and tie. Lovely shades of blue.
Mr. Akamine in tweed suit, three button, roll two and a pocket square - naturally.
 Mr. Akamine casual dress, odd jacket, pullover, casual cord trousers and an orange scarf, yes a pocket square.
 Mr. Akamine in converse shoes
Mr. Akamine in a brown chalked stripped double breasted suit, tie, pocket square.
 Mr. Akamine in a grey flannel double breasted suit, tie and pocket square, standing with Mr. Michael Alden(left)
 Mr. Akamine in another double breasted suit, tie and a white pocket square
Photos sourced from the Sartorialist and For The Discerning Few